Wednesday, March 27, 2013

Korea day 3 - Korean Folk Village and Garosugil (tree-lined street)

We had yet another difficult night, where Sophie only fell asleep at 1:30 am ("Look! Mama, Dada, I am walking without holding anything!"), we woke up at 7:30 (used an actual alarm clock, thankyouverymuch) and headed out to Suwon where, again, our plans changed AND WE DIDN'T ACTUALLY GO TO SUWON.

Suwon is a town outside of Seoul that has a really nice (so we hear) fortress. The town nearby has the Korean Folk Village, an incredible reproduction of Korean life a gazillion years ago. Having read ahead of time that transportation is more limited to the folk village, we decided to start there.

We read that the subway takes an hour and 45 minutes to arrive, but the bus takes 40 minutes, so we braved the local bus system to save time, an excellent decision in retrospect. We got great directions and instructions from Trip Advisor, and when we located the bus stop, a local man who works there MADE US TAKE A PICTURE OF THE BUS ROUTE so we could tell the driver when we need to get off. Seriously, he wouldn't stop rambling in Korean until we took a picture with our cell phone of that AND another bus route that we weren't even interested in.

Because we had a baby in tow, we sat in the front seat, and once we passed through the small town after the freeway (thank you, Trip Advisor), we told the driver the name of the place in Korean and he told us when to get off.

We KNEW having a baby was a good idea!

What we didn't expect, however, was this incredible love for babies that everyone here has, from teenagers to the elderly. Everywhere we went, everyone who saw Sophie just melted and had to touch her. Luckily for them, Sophie loves the attention. She has been getting so much attention that we will probably have problems when we get back. She'll be all WHERE MY PEEPS BE AT? Good thing she doesn't have a sibling on the way or she'd be all, I'M OUTTA HERE.

We entered the village and were literally trampled by a group of teen girls. Not by accident - they saw Sophie and gushed. They took pictures of her, they took pictures WITH HER, and helped Rony reach 2 important conclusions:

1) We can ask any random stranger on the subway to babysit and have a night to ourselves.
2) Sophie can shoot a commercial in Korea and have her college tuition paid for. Or her braces, y'all have seen her teeth.

Once the group of girls left, ANOTHER group of teens came (boys included) and OMIGOODNESS we've been here for half an hour and we STILL HAVEN'T MOVED. But it was fun, and Sophie put on a show for them, giggling, walking, and stealing their phones, and we are on vacation with a baby, so we can't expect the same trip we had last time, and we knew it from the get go.

We LOVED the folk village. They invested a lot of effort into making it an incredible experience of any age, right down to the tiny details.

Things we learned at the village that we have been doing wrong our entire lives:

1) Sleeping early on New Year's Eve makes your eye rows white, so stay up.
2) When pregnant, dreams of a long eggplant, pepper, and sun mean you are expecting a boy; A short eggplant, green pepper, and moon mean you are expecting a girl.
3) Neighbors should peep in the bridal room on the first night of marriage.

Also, here is a list of jobs we will never have:

1) Tight-rope walker

We had such an awesome time, and, after 2 really cold days, we spent the day without our coats on, and it was splendid. Sophie fell asleep ON SCHEDULE in the early afternoon so we didn't leave to give her more time to nap, and ended up not making it to the fortress because we wanted to try to get her back on a normal sleeping schedule so that, you know, we don't accidentally leave her in Korea cause we are so exhausted.

Having changed our plans AGAIN, we decided to go to Garosugil, the tree-lined street close to our hotel. It is, indeed, lined with trees, however those trees are barren at the end of March, but not all was lost because:

1) We let Sophie walk a LOT, in hopes that she would tire enough to sleep at a normal hour (mission accomplished, she fell asleep around 7:30)
2) We had the most delicious waffle ever created - a walnut waffle topped with caramel and honey-roasted nuts.

Best. Dinner. Ever.

We hope to have pictures up for you soon, but we probably won't until we reach Japan. Talk to you soon!

Seoul day 2 - Changdeokgung Palace and the Secret Garden in Japanese + Namdaemun Market

Before we continue, we are really sorry there are no pictures yet. This literally affects the quality if our posts.

Anyway, after another difficult night (up from 1-3:30 am), we finally got up and, as seems to be a recurring theme, changed our plans.

We started at Changdeokgung Palace and the accompanying Secret Garden. Since Talia is and overachiever, we already knew that the Secret Garden is only accessibly by guided tour, but we missed the first tour early in the morning and the next was only at 3:30 pm.

We were THIS CLOSE to just skipping the Secret Garden and going to the palace alone when we suddenly realized there was a Japanese tour about to start in an hour (an hour that it would take us to tour the palace anyway) so we got tickets to the Japanese tour. We knew everyone woukd say kawaii (cute) to Sophie anyway, so we understood what was important!

This ended up being a great decision because the Secret Garden is GORGEOUS. We know it's probably stunning when the flowers are already in full bloom, but we loved it anyway. But, boy, were those a tiring 3+ hours!

We had read that there are sections inaccessible to strollers in the garden, so we took our baby carrier instead and made our way to the palace.

And then our backs broke by the time we reached the palace, so we took one of the free strollers (yes!) they had there (as they have at every tourist attraction). In retrospect, this was a wise decision - our own stroller's wheels probably would have gotten ruined anyway, and we were able to access everything but the final stop with the stroller (though we had to lift it up a couple of stairs a few times).

Our next stop was for lunch where we discovered Sophie definitely loves dumplings! Though she's definitely becoming harder to keep up with now that she challenges everything that breathes (and, you know, that doesn't).

After lunch (at 3:30 pm), we returned to our hotel in Gangnam (Style) so we could take a nap because you know what they say, a family that naps together, .

In the evening, we went to Namdaemun Market, which was nice, but not unlike Shuk Hacarmel (the market in Tel Aviv) in Korean. Other than the REALLY weird seafood stuff on a stick (we took pictures).

Our night ended in the morning, after another difficult night where Sophie thought 1 am is an EXCELLENT time to walk around the room unassisted. She'll probably say a new word tomorrow night.

Cute in Korean, maybe.

Monday, March 25, 2013

Welcome to Korea - even before you arrive!

Sophie: I'm in my pajamas, and it's dark outside, BUT I'M NOT IN BED!

Well, we are pretty sure that's what she was thinking as we walked around the airport. As we got on the plane, we were greeted by an adorable flight attendant who brought us a plastic bag and a box of tissues, "for the baby." Right after take off, we got a really cute bag with stuff in it, including a mini etch-a-scetch-type game that Sophie was totally into.

Sophie, of course, flirted with everyone on the plane, and received 3 offers of adoption from Japan and one from the Philippines.

The flight was a perfect preview to what we would learn when we arrived:

1) The Koreans are adorable and very similar to the Japanese in their desire to make everyone feel welcome.
2) The Koreans LOVE babies (and there don't seem to be many).

The airport deserves its own post, but suffice it to say that it has a movie theatre and an ICE SKATING RINK. For real.

7-Eleven, Dunkin' Donuts, and Baskin Robbins... We are definitely back in Asia!

We easily found our hotel, which is located in the middle of Gangnam (Style). The guy at the lobby showed us a fridge in the entrance full of water bottles, ice coffee, and some drink with picture of corn on it that we have yet to find the courage to sample, and said it is free. There are also warm drinks (not in cans), bananas, and snacks.

Our room is really nice, the bed is wide (though it doesn't feel like it when you sleep with a possesive one year old). It has a ginormous TV and a computer and a fridge, and looks like a zimmer (sorry, non-Hebrew speakers).

It's entirely possible that it is because this hotel was, and kinda may still be, a love motel. At least it sounded like it last night when we heard interesting noises coming from the room next door, but we showed THEM, we had a noisy baby from midnight to 3 am SO THERE.

Other than dinner at a really delicious Vietnamese restaurant (ha), we didn't really do anything last night. We had a lot of plans for today, but you know what they say, jetlag is what happens when you're making plans.

So we reogranized, and it was actually really great. We started at Insa-Dong, a long street with many different stores, galleries, booths, and restaurants. There is one where they make a traditional Korean candy and it's amazing to watch how it's done - they really put on a show! We recorded it on video, so we will upload it once we can.

They sell everything there from furniture and modern art, to candy and Gangnam Style socks (for real, we have a picture). We ate at a great restaurant there and proceeded to Jongmoyo Shrine. They are celebrating 100 years this year, so the place, other than gorgeous, is decorated with a LOT of lotuses.

From there we went to see the changing of the guard at Deoksugung Palace, which didn't happen because the palace is closed on Mondays and, as it turns out, today is Monday, but all was not lost because the palace is right by City Hall, which is really special. The new building was built as green as possible, and when you walk in you just feel peaceful. There is greenage EVERYWHERE, so many different types of plants going all thebway up to the ceiling. And, of course, like many places in Seoul, a free computer station (these are also found at subway stations).

Apropos subway stations, when we were at Seoulleung station, we had the opportunity tonsee the first virtual supermarket! You can walk up to one of many stands throughout the subway (including the gate that opens to get on the train!) and scan barcodes of whatever you want to order, and it is automatically delivered to you! Better than shopping online!

Everyone on the subway is completely enchanted with Sophie. I don't think there is a person above 70 who didn't pet her, and people of literally all ages (especially teens!) kept coming to her. Seeing as she's a performer, this must have been her favorite part of the trip so far.

We decided to take it easy this evening and not go out at night so we coukd try to get over our jetlag and have energy for the long day ahead tomorrow. We promise to post pictures as soon as we can.

Happy Passover, everyone!

Monday, March 18, 2013

Backpacking with a BABY?!

Who said children cramp your style?

Lots has happened in the two years since we last posted. We got married. We had a baby. And we decided that we have to go back to Asia!

In 5 days, the three of us, baby in tow, will be embarking on a 3.5-week trip to South Korea and Japan. Obviously, this trip will be different - after all, we now have a one year old daughter. Luckily for us, she is an awesome traveler (or at least was when we went to Paris a few months ago), so we can't wait to start this trip on Saturday.

We will still be backpacking - it's so much more comfortable than lugging around suitcases - plus makes public transportation with a baby so much easier.

We have made a few adjustments, though. Instead of moving from city to city every couple of days, we will have a few anchor cities where we stay for 3-7 nights and we will be taking day trips to places we didn't get to last time.

So while we will technically be in Tokyo for a week, we will actually be spending one day in the city at most. Same goes for Osaka.

This blog is being revived so you can stay up to date with our travels and know we're safe (we're talking to you, family!)

On Friday, we took a practice run with the baby carrier, just to make sure we didn't have any surprises ahead:


 Success! Her curiosity was peaked. We're going to have fun!

For some reason, it seems Baby Sophie was ashamed to be seen in public with us? We hope this doesn't happen in Korea and Japan!

Talk you Saturday (or Sunday!)